A recent post on FB was about knit Opera hoods...garment terms are VERY ambiguous. When looking (looking is researching) for garment terms keep an open mind and look for possible alternative descriptive labels. Materials used in a project may help you figure out what the garment is used for. Read to the end of the directions, and similar garments may include needed construction information.
I found a number of crochet "caps" for women using Berlin wool. One book was printed in Edinburgh, the search now becomes can I find the same directions reprinted in other sources, such as periodicals over the 1940-1865 period?
Crochet explained and illustrated, Cornelia Mee, 1845
Pg. 14, pattern # 8
8. VERY PRETTY TRAVELLING CAP, DONE IN DOUBLE CROCHET AND SINGLE OPEN CROCHET.
One oz. and a half of claret eight-thread German wool (sport) and half an oz. each of 2 colours of shaded wool (say amber and lilac) are required.
Make a chain with the claret wool on 84 stitches. (The whole is worked backwards and forwards, and in turning back you take the top loop of the row before.) Work 3 rows of claret. After these rows, decrease a stitch at the commencement of every row mentioned (that is, by taking the tops of 2 loops and working them as one). Work 2 rows of shaded amber, 4 of claret, 2 of lilac, 4 of claret, 2 of amber, 4 of claret, 2 of lilac, 4 of claret. Work 1 additional row of claret all along the row, working 2 stitches as 1; thus reducing the number to half of what you had in the preceding row. Do 2 rows of the amber, decreasing 1 at the beginning of each. Then 1 row more of claret, working the 2 loops together all along; 1 plain row. This finishes and is the back of the cap. Work 1 row of double crochet with the claret all the way round, working 1 stitch for each row round the back: then with claret work a row in single open crochet at the side round the ears; then 1 row of lilac, single open crochet; 1 of claret: 1 of amber: 1 of claret; 1 of lilac; and 1 of claret: then crochet it to the row of claret worked all round, which makes a double frill. Make a cord and tassels of the wools, mixed, to tie it, and also put one at the back to draw it in.
The lady's book of useful and ornamental crochet work (Edinburgh) 1848
[they use Berlin wool)
Bonnet Cap, pg161
Toque, 163
Opera Cap-Square at the Ears, 203
Elegant Opera Cap, 206
Carrige Cap, 209
Bonnet Cap [pg. 161]
You will require three skeins of white Berlin wool, and three shades of scarlet, two skeins of the lightest shade, five skeins of the middle shade and six of the last. [16 skeins]
Commence with white, make a chain of one hundred loops, work round each side in open crochet stitch, until you have it seven rows wide, always letting out at each end by putting two stitches into one hole; round the end to make it lie flat.
You now work a round of the darkest shade; then a round of the lightest shade, in working this round you put you stitch into every chain stitch instead of the large hole, you do so for a finger length [4.5”] at each end, and half way round the end to make a fullness for the border.
You now work a round with your second shade, but on the full part you catch the wool twice round the needle to make a longer loop, and put the stitch into every chain stitch, on the full part; the back, and middle of the front, are done of the open stitch same as the other rounds.
You end with the darkest shade, and work the round same as the last.
Draw a scarlet ribbon down the centre, bring it out under the border.
Toque [pg 163]
Geranium colour and white look well. Commence with white, made a chain half a yard long, you then wok a row of triple long open stitch, that is,k put the wool three times round the needle, and then draw the wool through two loops at a time until all are worked off, then make one loop, you miss every other chain stitch.
You now take your coloured wool and work of the common open stitch two rows round the white, putting four stitches into the end to make it sit flat.
You then work two rows of white, then two of the coloured, then one of white, and with two rows of the coloured wool. You put two stitches into one in working round the ends to make it sit flat.
Draw a satin ribbon through the wide row in the centre; when worn you turn back the front part a little.
Put a rosette on each side, make either of crochet work or ribbon.
Comfortable Prudence Cap. [Pg. 202]
It will require three shades of scarlet, and white.
Use a No. 14 ivory needle.
Commence with the darkest shade. Made a chain half a yard long, join it, and work two rounds of double crochet.
You now take the second shade, and work one row in open crochet, but leave twenty chain stitches for the neck part.
You now tie on your stitches into the last hole. You continue putting two stitches into the last hole in every row until finished.
You now work a while row.
You take the darkest shade, and repeat the colours in the same manner, until you have five stripes.
You now work two rounds of double crochet stitch, working along wach side and round the neck part.
Plait a string, and draw it down the first row of holes to tie under the chin.
Opera Cap-Square at the Ears, [pg. 203]
Rose colour and white Berlin wool. It will require half and ounce of each colour.
Work with needles No. 15 and No. 10.
Commence with the rose colour, and use No. 15 needle. Make a chain a little more than half a yard long.
The first row you put three long stitches into one chain stitches into one chain stitch, make one chain stitch between each three, and miss three chains betwixt each three long stitches.
Every row after the first you put the three long stitches into the open between the three long stitches in the last row.
You made a white and coloured row alternately, until you have five coloured rows and four white rows, you then work a row all round of double crochet.
You now take the white, and commence the border, and use needle No.l0.
You work it in double long crochet stitch; put two stitches in each chain stitch, and make one chain stitch between each long stitch.
You put two stitches into each chain stitch only round the ends, and about a fourth part up the front on each side. Put only one stitch into each chain stitch along the top.
You finish with a row of rose colour; put a double crochet stitch into each open, and make three chain stitches between each double stitch.
You now make two rosettes in the following manner, and sew one on each side:--
Make a chain of twenty loops with the rose colour, then put two double long stitches into each chain stitch, and make two chain stitches between each long stitch. Finish with a white row; putting a double crochet stitch into each open, and make three chain stitches between each double stitch, then draw it up.
Plait a string with the wool, and make a tassel at the end. Sew one on at each end.
Elegant Opera Cap. [206]
It will required half an ounce of shaded amber Berlin wool, and six skeins of white. Use a No. 14 crochet needle.
Commence with white; make a chain not quite half a yard long.
First Row – Open crochet.
Second Round. – Take the amber, and work along each side of the white. Put a long stitch into every chain stitch, fro a finger length up each side. Put a double crochet stitch into every other chain stitch, and makes a chain stitch betwixt each double stitch, along each side of the middle part.
Third Round – Put a long stitch into each chain stitch round each end, and up each side, but put two into each in turning the end, and then work along the middle part in the same manner as the last round.
Fourth Round. – Same as the last, but commence the double crochet stitches three or four stitches nearer the ends.
Fifth Round.—Same as the last.
Sixth Round.
Take the white, and commence the Frill. Put two double long stitches into each chain stitch round each end, and half-way up the broad part. The remainder of the broad part you put one single long stitch into each chain stitch, and along the narrow part you put a long stitch into every other chain stitch, with a chain stitch betwixt each long stitch.
Finish with double crochet row of the amber. Draw a ribbon down the open row in the centre.
Carriage Cap [Pg. 209]
It will require three shades of blue, three skeins of the darkest, six of the next shade, and half an ounce of the lightest, and three quarters of an ounce of white. Work with a needle No. 12.
Commence with white. Made a chain three half quarters long—work a row of open crochet. You then take the lightest blue, and work round each side of the white, and put four stitches into the end of the white.
Next round, take the middle shade, and work all round, putting two stitches into the end stitches to make it lie flat.
You now take the darkest shade, and work all round in the same manner as the last round. You then take the middle shade, and work all round, then the lightest, and work in the same manner also. You now work a round of double crochet of the same shade. You now take the white and commence
THE BORDER.
First Round.
Put a double long stitch into every chain stitch, and make two chain stitches between each long stitch.
Second Round.
Take the lightest shad of blue, make a chain of four stitches, and join them inot every open with a double crochet stitch.
Last Round.
Take the white and make four chain stitches, and join them into the chain in the last row with double crochet stitch.
You now tie the white on the Cap, a half-quarter up from the end, and two stripes from the Border. Work round the end on the stripe in the same manner as the Border, putting two stitches into the space between the stitches on the row. You work another frill on the second stripe from the last, round the end in the same manner, so as to form three borders round the ears.
You plait a string, and draw it down the centre of the Cap, and let the sting come out below the frill to tie under the chin.
I'm going to brush up on my crochet and try making a cap/s out of this book. Some would say they would not have been make here (USA) during the 19th century as the book is from Edinburgh....and the directions may not have made it here. So I'm going to experiment...and look at period photo's for similar styles. This is going to take awhile. :)
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