Bitterly Divided

Currently reading:/ Finished reading Aug. 16.
Bitterly Divided: The South's Inner Civil War, by David Williams

North and South by Elizabeth Cleghorn Gaskell

Finished listening to: 7/12/13

North and South, by Elizabeth Cleghorn Gaskell - 1855
http://librivox.org/north-and-south-by-elizabeth-gaskell/

This one is difficult to listen to...every chapter is read by a different person, with different accents! :( 

Black Cotton...hose, hosiery and stockings

While searching for black cotton fabrics I stumbled across black cotton hosiery...not as obscure as I thought. I look for advertisements from different sellers and locations. Many are reprinted in newspapers through out the year, I listed one example to illustrate what was listed for sale, also if they specified "ladies' or women". When it only listed hose (no gender) may be men's. I believe most are imported and machine made as there are no references to home knit.


Edgefield Advertiser, (SC) Nov. 1859
LADIES'
Alexander, White, Black and Fancy Colored KID GLOVES;
Ladies' GAUNTLETS;
Ladies Merino and Silk VESTS, with or without Sleeves
Low Priced and Super Black Silk HOSE;
.."......."......"......."....... "....Cotton..."
Black Raw Silk HOSE;
Black Moravian HOSE;
Misses' Cotton and Wool HOSE, at
J.&A.J. SETZE'S.

(1st. col)
http://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn84026897/1859-11-23/ed-1/seq-4/            

Edgefield Advertiser, (SC) Aug. 1863
NEW GOODS!
500Yds. Handsome English Prints;
Five Pieses English ?ONG CLOTH;
Ladies' Linen HANDERCHIEFS;
Gents'....do......do
Ladies' Black Cotton HOSE;
..."......Mixed....."........"
Misses..".........."........"
Ladies' SILK BELTS;
Also a great variety of other desirable Goods,
just received by E.PENN, Agt.

(4th col)
http://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn84026897/1863-08-12/ed-1/seq-2/

Sunbury American, (PA) Nov. 1863 (& March 1864)

MOURNING GOODS!
Black Glossy Silks,
4-4 Black Cashmeres;
Super Black Mohairs,
Fine Black Alpaccas,
Black and Purple Delains,
White and Black Figured Delaines,
Black Crepe Maretz,
Lupins Black all wool Delaines,
Black Silk Bereges,
Good Black Degege,
Plain Black Gingrams,
Plain Black Calicoes,
Neat Figured Black Calicoes,
Fine Black Sack Flannels,
Black Love Veils,
Jouvins Black Kid Gloves,
Black Silk Gauntletts,
Black Gloves in Variety,
Fine Mourning Handkerchiefs,
Black cotton and wool Hosiery,
Black Tibet and Wool Shawls,
    &c., &c., &c.,
A nice line of the above goods now
 pen and for sale at low prices
E.Y. BRIGHT & SON.

(4th. col)
http://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn84026403/1863-11-28/ed-1/seq-3/

Juliet Signal (ILL), July 1861
HOSIERY AND GLOVES
Our stock of Ladies' White, Brown, Slate and Black Cotton Hosiery is complete.

(2nd col.)
http://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn84024082/1861-07-30/ed-1/seq-3/

The Daily Dispatch, (VA) Dec. 1864
AUCTION SALES.
1 lot White and Black Cotton Hosiery,

(4th col)
http://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn84024082/1861-07-30/ed-1/seq-3/

Cleveland Morning Leader. (OH) July 1858
ANNOUNCEMENT.
Hosiery-Hosiery,
(lists colors to include)
Ladies Black Cotton Hose

(5th col.)
http://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn83035143/1858-07-08/ed-1/seq-3/

The Daily Dispatch (VA) Aug. 1858
JUST RECEIVED PER STEAMER
Ladie's White, Mixed and Black Cotton Hose, at all prices

(2nd col)
http://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn84024738/1858-08-02/ed-1/seq-4/

Cincinnati Daily Press (OH) April 1860
HOSIERY!
1,000 pairs Ladies' Slate, Black, White and Unbleached.
COTTON HOSE

 (5th col)
http://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn84028745/1860-04-03/ed-1/seq-2/

I have also seen advertisements for ladies cotton stockings in British newspapers.

Update...looking for earlier advertisements for black cotton, did not see any before 1841...but...never say never

 New-York Tribune.(NY) April 1841
HOSIER of every description, black and white English silk for
6d, 8s, and 12s per pair;cotton black, white and colored, both ribbed and plain.

J.H.Bockover & Co.

New-York Tribune (NY), Oct. 1841 (1842)
HOSIERY AND GLOVES
A complete stock comprising ever variety of each adapted to the present season.
Black Cotton Hose

Brown & Urquhart

New-York Tribune (NY), March 1843
William Hern, ...
Fine black, white and slate Cotton Hose...

Vermont Phoenix, (VT) April 1844
Spring Importaion
TOWNE, WALDO & CO
--Offer for sale--
Hosiery, Gloves, etc.
White, unbleached, black and colored Cotton Hose; plaine, imperial, ribbed, open work and embroidered;...

Fancy Cotton Bags, open-work and chene; [wonder what kind of bags these are???]

Burlington Free Press (VT), May 1845
New Goods
P&H.H. Doolittle have just received form New York...
Ladies white, Unbleached, black and colored Cotton Hose,...

 Daily Atlas, (Boston, MA), January 1843
DRY GOODS
CHACEGREW & CO, 79-81 Milk steet, have received by the late arrivals from England and France, One Hundred and seventy packages of new and desirable goods,....
Worsted Hosiery;
Merino      "
White and black Cotton " (hosiery)

The Civilan and Galveson City Gazette (Galveston, TX)
IMPORTATION DIRECT FROM LONDON
The subsribers respectfully inform the citizens of Galveston, and the residents to Texas in general, that the Brig Mary Barry has just arrived here form London, with a (?...)
splendid assortment of merchandize....

HOSIERY, GLOVES, ETC.
Comprising....Black Cotton and Worsted Hose

Weekly Houston Telegraph (Houston, TX)
Hosiery, Gloves, etc.
Comprising...Ladies white and fancy cotton hose embroidered; black, cotton and worsted hose....

The Southern Patriot, (Charleston, SC) March, 1843
Package and Lot Sale
By Dick & Holmes...
Cases White, Slate and Black Cotton Stockings...

The Southern Patriot, (Charleston, SC) April, 1843
Hosiery, Gloves and Domestics
Ladies' white and black Cotton HOSE,...
O.&G TAYLOR.

New-Hampshire Gazette (Portsmouth, NH) July, 1844
Mourning Goods...
Super Black Gotton Hose, open work, ribbed and plain...

Southern Patriot, (Charleston, SC) Jan. 1845
1 case Women's good quality fine Black Cotton Stockings, at 25 cents
1 case Women's extra heavy fine Black Cotton Stockings...

Mordeci & Colburn

Southern Patriot, (Charleston, SC) April, 1845
English Hosiery & Gloves
Hose...
Ladies white Cotton, plain and open work
Ladies colored and black Cotton
Misses' white Cotton, plain and open work
Misses' colored and Black Cotton...

Clarken & Tevlin

Southern Patriot, (Charleston, SC) Feb.1846
Cheap Spring Goods,
Ketchum & Thomas...
White and Black Cotton Hose, at 12 1/2

The Boston Daily Atlas (MA) April, 1848
By Whitwells & Seaver
2 cases White and black Cotton Hosiery.

Daily Atlas (Boston, MA) May, 1850
Hosiery, &c., &c.
Haughton, Sawyer & CO...
Women's white and mixed col'd Cotton Hose'
Women's black Mor (?)  col'd Hose
Women's blue mixed and slate col'd Hose
Women's (stout ?) ribbed black Cotton Hose
Women's Imperial ribbed, stlate col'd, white and black.

The Constitution (Middletown, CT) July 1852
New Goods
50 doz. Cotton Hose, 6 1-4 cts,
Black Cotton Hose, 6d.

The Boston Daily Atlas (MA) March, 1855
By Edward F. Hall
Dry and Fancy Goods and Woolens...
Consisting of a large assortment of ladies' white, brown mixed and black cotton Hosiery-white and mixed ribbed do- misses white and slate cotton Hose-...

The Macon Daily Telegraph, (GA) Jan. 1864
Just Received from Late
Package Sales...
Ladies' White and Black Cotton and Silk Hose

Cotton Stockings

While listening to yet another audio book, this one from 1862.  I started knitting another pair of mid-19th century cotton stockings, these are worn below the knee. It has been a challenge to find an equivalent cotton to knit with. I think I may have found a suitable cotton. I am using cotton butchers twine in 3 ply (35wpi), a typical ply for the period. The needles are 000 dps and the gauge is 11 spi.

The first photo is of an original stocking with my sample on top.

3 ply cotton butchers twine 

  It is my intent to complete a pair by summers end.....I do get a quite a lot of knitting completed when listening to audio books  :)

Update 7/03/13 Shaping the leg begun, 6 1/4" knit.

 

Still growing :)

July 20, 2013 started foot

Update: one completed and the second stocking less than 5" to go on the foot and toe  :)

TA-DA!

 

Just need to weave in some ends and block! :)

BLACK...cottons

Here are just a few "advertisements" for black goods, mourning calicoes, lawns and muslin etc. These are from the Library of Congress. If you have access to other newspaper data bases try the same term searches. Sometimes we have not "seen" an original object to document but reading period advertisements lets you "see" what was offered for sale.

"MOURNING + CALICO" 
The Nashville Daily Union, (Tenn.) November 1863

CAMERON, KNIGHT & CO'S
CHEAP STORE,
Corner of Deaderick and the Square.;
IMMENSE ATTRACTION!!
LOW PRICES!
The Finest Assortment of Goods in the City

[(lists goods for sale) to include:

MOURNING CALICOES.
75 PIECES of solid black and black and white Calicoes, of the neatest patterns in market.

GRAY CALICOES,
A NEW style of mourning calicoes,

LOC
http://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn83025718/1863-11-14/ed-1/seq-3/

Edgefield Advertiser, (SC) Nov. 1857
BUY THE BEST AND CHEAPEST
JAMES HENEY,
AUGUSTA, GA

HAS now in store one of the best and most fashionable stocks of DRY GOODS ever brought to Augusta, and he solicits an inspection of them by his friends and the bublic. Being satisfied with very SMALL PROFITS, he is confident that his stock will be found CHEAPER than that of any other in the Trade.
The following disireable styles of goods are to be found in his stock:

[under CALICOES;]
A large stock of Mourning CALICOES;

LOC
http://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn84026897/1857-11-25/ed-1/seq-4/

Cleveland Morning Leader (OH), October 1860
NEW GOODS
MONDAY, 11TH INST.
E.I. BALDWIN & CO.

Under; MOURNING GOODS.
Mourning Calicos,

LOC
http://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn83035143/1860-10-11/ed-1/seq-1/

"MOURNING +LAWN"

Ashtabula Weekly Telegraph, (OH) July 1860

A FULL and complete assortment of DRESS GOODS, among which are Challi DeLaines, Muslin-Delains, Foulard, Challis, Lawns Berages, Poil De Cheore, Plainds, Mourning Lawns and Challis, Black and Fancy Silks, some splendid patterns, and very low.
Can be found at ROOT & MORRISON'S

LOC
http://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn83035216/1860-07-14/ed-1/seq-2/

Raftsman's Journal (PA), June 1858
NEW FIRM, NEW ARRANGEMENTS, AND NEW GOODS.--Just arriving and being opened by the new firm of Moore and Etzwiiler, a large and well selected stock of GOODS,
comprising a splendind assortment of Swisses, Bishop Lawns, Plaid Muslins, Cambries, Delaine Robes, Lawn Robes, Mourning and Fancy Lawns in great variety...

LOC
http://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn85054616/1858-06-30/ed-1/seq-2/

"MOURNING + MUSLIN"

The Chattanooga Daily Rebel (Tenn) March 1863
EXTENSIVE CATALOGUE SALE OF
IMPORTED GOODS
BY D. MAYER, JACOBE & CO.,
ATLANTA, GEORGIA
ON Tuesday, the 10th of March, 1863
J.JACOBE,  Auctioneer.

5000 yards elegant Lawns,
2000 yards mourning Muslin,...

LOC
http://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn82015209/1863-03-06/ed-1/seq-2/

"Black + White"

CHRISTIAN & LATHROP would invite the especial attention of families to their stock of Mourning Goods, of the best makes:
...Black and Black and White Lawns and Organdies
.....Do...........do.............do    Ginghams

LOC
http://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn84024738/1855-05-02/ed-1/seq-4/

Fayetteville Observer, (Tenn) Sept. 1857

LATE ARRIVALS
OF NEW SPRING AND SUMMER
DRY GOODS,
AT THE STORE OF
T.C. Goodrich.
list of assorted goods.... to include;
Muslins, painted Lawns, black and white Lawns, black and white Muslins...

LOC
http://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn85033395/1857-09-10/ed-1/seq-2/

Staunton Spectator, (VA) April 1864
NEW GOODS AT MOSSY CREEK!
2000 yds, 4-4 Brown Cotton, 50 pads Cotton yarn, No. 10 to 12 300 yds, Calico, light, dark, black and white, 5 pieces Lawn, fancy and black and white, 160 yds....

LOC
 http://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn84024718/1864-04-12/ed-1/seq-2/

The Daily Dispatch, (VA) Jan. 1865
BARGAINS, BARGAINS
Just received and for sale at No. 183 Broad street...
3000 yards BLACK WHITE LAWNS,...
500 yards BLACK AND WHITE CALICOES, ...

LOC
http://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn84024738/1865-01-13/ed-1/seq-4/

Store bought hosiery 1863

The Nashville Daily Union (Nashville, Tenn.) November 14, 1863
CAMERON, KNIGHT & CO'S
CHEAP STORE,
Corner of Deaderick and the Square.;
IMMENSE ATTRACTION!!
LOW PRICES!
The Finest Assortment of Goods in the City
[(lists goods for sale) But the following caught my eye...
Gloves & Hosiery.
A full and complete assortment of kid, ? thread, silk, cloth, buck gloves. Also ringwood, berlin and buck gauntlets. Black slate fleeced silk hose, lama wool, aplacca, white fleeced, white and grey merino and wool ribbed hose, of the very best qualities. Also a handsome assortment of balmoral hose.
Library of Congress

http://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn83025718/1863-11-14/ed-1/seq-3/

3rd col. bottom Gloves & Hosiery. "?" I think is lile or lisle thread...wondering if "lama" is supposed to be lambs wool but there is no mistaking alpacca!

What did "they" really do....

Here is an interesting article. I enjoy reading "household" books of the period, they explain how to do "stuff" in the home. This article discusses some of the things that are really done! 

1863 American Agriculturist

Small Leaks in the Household Ship

            A thousand worm holes, that will each admit scarcely a gallon of water during ten hours, will much sooner water-log a ship than a large hole through which is poured in a gallon a minute. In the financial affairs of a family, though the large outgoes may be canvassed and avoided, the whole income may be dribbled away, and no advance be made toward competency, wealth, or position. As a rule, the financial success of any family depends more upon the economy of the wife, than upon the earnings or business income of the husband.

—Mrs. Haskell, in her recently issued “Household Encycopaedia,” throws together some of the small leaks in a household ship, which we copy for a double purpose; 1st, to show the men that their wives have a multitude of cares, of little details, to look after—generally far more items than occur in man’s business pursuits; and 2nd, to perhaps in some cases indicate to housewives details that they may not have thought of before:--“Much waste is experienced in the boiling etc., of meats. Unless watched, the cook will throw out the water without letting it cool to take off the fat, or scrape the dripping pan into the swill-pail. This grease is useful in many ways. It can be burned in lamps mixes with lard; or when no pork has been boiled with it, made into candles. 

When pork is boiled alone, it will do to fry cakes, if cleansed. Again, bits of meat are thrown out which would make hashed meat, or hash. The flour is sifted in a wasteful manner, or the bread-pan left with dough sticking to it. Pie crust is left and laid by to sour, instead of making a few tarts for tea, etc. Cake batter is thrown out because but little is left. Cold puddings are considered good for nothing, when often they can be steamed for the next day, or, as in case of rice, made over in other forms. Vegetables are thrown away that would warm for breakfast nicely. 

Dish towels are thrown down where nice can destroy them. Soap is left in water to dissolve, or more used than is necessary. Ft Bath brick, whiting, rotten stone, etc., are used, much is wasted uselessly. The scrub brush is left in water, pails scorched by the stove, tubs and barrels left in the sun to dry and fall apart, chamber pails allowed to rust, tins not dried, and iron-ware rusted; nice knives used for cooking in the kitchen, silver spoons are used to scrape kettles, or forks to toast bread. 

Rinsing of sweetmeats, and skimmings of syrup, which make good vinegar, are thrown out; cream is allowed to mould, and spoil; mustard to dry in the pot, and vinegar to corrode the castor; tea, roasted coffee, pepper, and spices, to stand open and lose their strength. The molasses jug loses the cork, and the flies take possession. Sweetmeats are opened and forgotten. Vinegar is drawn in a basin, and allowed to stand, until both basin and vinegar are spoiled. Sugar is spilled from the barrel, coffee from the sack, and tea from the chest. Different sauces are made too sweet, and both sauce and sugar wasted. Dried fruit has not been taken care of in season, and becomes wormy. The vinegar on pickles loses strength, or leaks out, and the pickles become soft. Potatoes in the cellar grow, and the sprouts are not removed until they become worthless. Apples decay for want of looking over. Pork spoils for want of salt, and beef because the brine wants scalding. Hams become tainted, or filled with vermin, for want of the right protection. Dried beef becomes so hard it can’t be cut. Cheese moulds, and is eaten by mice or vermin. Lard is not well tried in the Fall, and becomes tainted. Butter spoils for want of being well made at first. Bones are burned that will make soup. 

Ashes are thrown out carelessly, endangering the premises, and being wasted. Servants leave a light and fire burning in the kitchen, when they are out all the evening. Clothes are whipped to pieces in the wind; fine cambrics rubbed on the board, and laces torn in starching. Brooms are never hung up, and soon are spoiled. Carpets are swept with stubs, hardly fit to scrub the kitchen, and good new brooms used for scrubbing. Towels are used in place of holders, and good sheets to iron on, taking a fresh one every week, thus scorching nearly all in the house. Fluid if used, is left uncorked, endangering the house, and wasting the alcohol. Caps are left from lamps, rendering the fluid worthless by evaporation. Table linen is thrown carelessly down and is eaten by mice, or put away damp and is mildewed; or the fruit stains are forgotten, and the stains washed in. Table-cloths and napkins used as dish wipers; mats forgotten to be put under hot dishes; teapots melted by the stove; water forgotten in pitchers, and allowed to freeze in winter; slops for cow and pig never saved; china used to feed cats and dogs on; and in many other ways. a careless and inexperienced housekeeper will waste, without heeding the hard-earned wages of her husband; when she really thinks, because she buys on fine clothes, makes the old ones last, and cooks plainly, she is a most superior housekeeper.”—The next time an unthinking husband is disposed to be severe because some trifling matter has been neglected, he should “put that in his pipe and smoke it.”